New Restaurant Cheat Sheet: May + June 2025 Report

A Top Chef alum’s BBQ spot launches, Nepali flavors grow in RiNo, and a high-profile bar stirs things up in Sunnyside

Happy Tuesday, everyone! I hope you had a fun and/or restful Fourth of July weekend. Every year I watch the Coors Field fireworks and every year I marvel at the fact that the most advanced firework technology humankind has been able to produce is a lopsided smiley face.

🫠 Ok, let's get on with today's business.

Here’s what’s in today’s newsletter:

• 10+ new Denver restaurants you should know about

• 4 links that made me laugh, cry, or say whaaaat?

• One final craving (why pop-up dinners are still worth it)

10+ new restaurants you should know about

Yes, I keep a list of every new and upcoming restaurant opening in and around the Denver area and every few weeks I sift through all of them to pick out the ones you actually need to know about. This cheat sheet edition is super-sized since it covers both May + June:

New restaurant concepts

Top row: Manny Barella and Patrik Klaiber, Riot BBQ; Bottom row: Pema, Yangdi Sherpa

1. Riot BBQ - Overland: A new beginning for a familiar space

Riot BBQ, a new Denver joint, has been selling out nearly every day since opening in June, running through 1,200 pounds of brisket a week. The space was formerly AJ’s Pit Bar-B-Q, which abruptly closed earlier this year after the owners skipped town and left the business saddled with years of unpaid taxes.

This created an unexpected opportunity for chef Manny Barella, a recent Top Chef Season 21 contestant, who had just become a new father and planned to focus on consulting and pop-ups for the next year. He wasn’t thinking about opening a restaurant – until his friend, former AJ’s pitmaster Patrick Klaiber, told him the space was going up for auction. He couldn’t pass up the opportunity. Barella, along with partner Caleb Benton, bought the building, and recruited Klaiber to come on as the third partner. Now, the trio are bringing new life into the building.

Former AJ’s fans – many of whom have excitedly descended upon the restaurant – will still find Klaiber’s Texas BBQ classics on the menu, now joined by dishes inspired by Barella’s northern Mexican roots. When developing the menu, Barella said the goal was simple: every item should make you say, “f*ck yes” after taking a bite.

Now first-time restaurant owners Barella and Klaiber are rallying their team – many of whom used to work at the old restaurant – around a new goal: reclaiming the Michelin Bib Gourmand AJ’s earned in 2023 but lost in 2024. As Barella put it, “Bib or bust” has become the team’s unofficial back of house motto.

• Vibe: The interior remains largely unchanged from its days as AJ’s: a mix of thrifted decor – snowshoes, old records, mismatched framed photos – lit by exposed Edison bulbs and accented with the occasional cow skull. When the weather is nice, head out back to a nicely covered area with rows of picnic tables where you can catch the smoke-scented breeze.

• What’s on the menu: During my hosted visit, I tried nearly everything on the menu. My advice would be go with a mix of meats to get a good sense of the restaurant’s strengths: Try out the brisket, jalapeño cheddar sausage, al pastor ribs, and a chicken taco (featuring tortillas from Raquelitas) inspired by Barella’s childhood memories of grilled chicken from El Pollo Loco. For sides, creamy mac ‘n’ cheese and baked beans work alongside punchier items like the salsa macha slaw, and Mexican dirty rice. I also loved the esquites cornbread, a jalapeno cheddar version topped with a velvety burnt onion crema that evokes the smoky flavors of Mexican street corn.

2. Margot - Platt Park: Long standing pop-up restaurant finally settles down

As of May 20th, Justin Fulton has found a permanent home for Margot, a fine dining concept that had been posting up on the off nights at various different restaurants for the last three years. Running Tue - Sat evenings, Margot now supports an eight-seat chef’s counter that costs $165/pp and runs through 12 courses, with two seatings a night. The restaurant shares the South Pearl building with Kizaki, an Edomae sushi tasting menu from one of Sushi Den’s founders, which recently opened in April.

If you can’t commit to a tasting menu, walk-ins are welcome in the main dining room where an à la carte menu, designed for sharing and building your own tasting menu, is available. Some dishes are large-format takes on chef’s table dishes, while others skew “more rustic and comforting,” Fulton said over DM. Five plates for two people is enough for a full meal.

• Vibe: For the chef’s counter, wood slats line the walls and ceilings, with dark vertical tile on either side of the compact space. The main dining space for walk-in guests is a bit of the opposite: large and bright with the pale wood surfaces reflecting the light coming in from the skylights and large picture windows facing Pearl Street.

• What’s on the menu: Items from a June tasting menu included Parisian gnocchi and olive oil brioche – which have become signature Margot dishes. Recent a la carte menu items include heirloom tomato salad, oysters, and seasonal vegetable dishes sourced from local farms (e.g., Esoterra, Kiowa Valley Farm), and a rotating crudo (currently hamachi with fennel and apricots).

3. Pema Tibetan & Nepali - RiNo: New beginnings for a family business

In early June, Yangdi Sherpa and her son, Sonam, opened Pema in the former Dochi donut space on Larimer at the edge of RiNo. The family brings years of experience in the food industry – they’ve operated Indian Oven, a buffet-style spot on S. Colorado Blvd, for over 15 years, though that location will soon close. While Pema also features Indian dishes, the emphasis is on homey, comforting items you’ll find being served in homes across Nepal.

• Vibe: A surprisingly calm and quiet space, despite its location on a busy street. The interior features minimalist, clean, and modern furnishings, with a soothing palette of white, gray, and black. The family’s love of their home country is reflected in the photographs and artwork depicting Nepal, and decorative elements like fuzzy yaks figurines that sit on the shelf just behind the register.

• What’s on the menu: While tikka masala, vindaloo, and saag are available, go for Tibetan and Nepali specialties that you won’t find at other restaurants. The thenthuk – a savory clear broth with thumb-sized chunks of wheat noodles and vegetables is a great place to start. If ordering spicy items like the keema noodles, you can restore your palate by ordering a mango lassi.

Bars, cafes, and coffee shops

Semiprecious

4. Semiprecious - Sunnyside: Aperitivo has arrived

I’d been online stalking Semiprecious since it was announced a few months ago. Opened in May in Denver’s Sunnyside neighborhood, it's the latest from Mike Capoferri, best known for Thunderbolt, the LA bar currently sitting at #24 on the North America’s 50 Best Bars list. Where Thunderbolt made a name for itself by serving breezy cocktails crafted using laboratory-level techniques, Capoferri translates his brand of hyper detailed drink service for the Denver market in the form of a low-key, neighborhood bar.

Capoferri said over email that the opening menu at Semiprecious features a brand-new slate of drinks he created in collaboration with GM Nikolas Sparks and the Thunderbolt leadership team. They’ve brought over the custom refrigeration techniques that’s integral to their process – chilling cocktails to their exact freezing point to retain a frosty serving temp without using any ice. For zero-proof drinks that may naturally freeze more easily, Capoferri said they carefully choose ingredients, “add[ing] other things like non-fermentable sugars or hydrocolloids that allow the cocktail to be chilled in the same cooler as something much boozier without ice-crystal formation.”

Despite the development and labor that goes into creating each item, the prices remain relatively affordable. All drinks are $15 or under, and martinis go for just $10 since they’re smaller and meant to be enjoyed quickly while the cocktail is still cold.

• Vibe: Aperitivo culture – a tradition of easing into the evening with light drinks and snacks among friends that’s popular in many European countries — is woven into the bar’s DNA. Capoferri, who fell in love with the ritual during his five years globetrotting as an ambassador for Campari America said “the aperitivo moment is the epitome of welcoming, neighborhood-bar culture.” After getting to know Sunnyside, the team wanted to bring that same spirit to the still-sleepy but quickly developing part of Denver. Those with a design eye will spot the cool-kid-approved vibe – pegboard painted the same burgundy as the bar stools, punctuated by pops of color from the cobalt blue Hay chairs – giving the entire space an artfully nonchalant air.

• What’s on the menu: If he had to pick just two drinks to recommend, Capoferri points to the tomato highball and strawberry negroni. The highball is savory and hyper-carbonated, ideal as a palate opener, while the negroni reimagines a classic with a surprising olive oil and strawberry twist. The bar also offers two housemade zero-proof options: the Garibaldi highball (orange cordial, NA aperitif, vanilla, bubbles) and the Lychee Daiquiri (the only drink served that’s similar to one on the Thunderbolt menu), with more to come. “There is well documented evidence of a growing global desire for more NA options in third places,” Capoferri says. “Semiprecious is a place for everyone in the neighborhood, not just for the people who choose to drink alcohol.”

5. Rook - RiNo: Over 21 board game bar

The top floor of the Catbird Hotel has been reborn as Rook, a retro game-themed cocktail bar and lounge. Weekly events include a Tuesday night Guess Who? tournament, and a Scrabble night held every Wednesday. And yes, you can play a game of chess here as well. In addition to Denver city views, the bar’s large outdoor patio includes pool tables to keep you entertained.

• Vibe: Fun and funky upholstered furnishings blend ‘70s flair with 2020s-era touch-me fabrics – think nubby plaid wool chairs paired with curvy pink velvet banquettes – offering plenty of spots to sit and play games on tables spray-painted with chess/checker boards.

• What’s on the menu: The drink menu delivers all the high/low faves you’d want: Coors Banquet, espresso martinis, sangria, rosé – and Malört. Most days, there’s a $10 drink special on offer. Food options lean into nostalgic snack territory with items like a walking taco, grilled cheese, and a hot dog with mustard and relish.

6. Foxglove Bar - Lafayette: Backyard dream bar

Lafayette now has a cute-as-a-button cocktail bar specializing in garden-inspired cocktails and spirit-free drinks. The bar, owned by Jordan Lewis, is located in a refurbished apartment behind his home goods shop, Vintrey Honest Goods. It’s part of a larger project called The Yard – a privately owned community space that also includes a seasonal location of Punch Buggy Shave Ice, open during the summer.

• Vibe: It’s giving your rich neighbor from Palm Springs who renovated her guest house into a fabulous backyard bar. On good weather days, the double doors are left open to reveal a cozy hideaway with soft, petal-pink walls and pea soup–green accents. A spacious outdoor patio perfect for lazing with a drink on a warm summer evening.

• What’s on the menu: Non-drinkers have plenty of options here, thanks to an extensive spirit-free menu featuring drinks like the Wisdom Sour, made with pu-erh tea, apple cider vinegar, reishi tincture, and ground spices. For those looking for something stronger, the bar offers classic cocktails like the Old Fashioned and French 75, along with a selection of house specialties.

7. Teahee - Westwood: Boba, bold brews, and pop culture

In May, the Far East Center welcomed a new tenant: Teahee, a tea and coffee shop owned by Cat Doan, who brings over two decades of experience in the industry. While their boba teas draw customers in on their own, they’ve also leveraged the power of Asian pop culture as a fun way to widen their customer base and attract people into the shop.

Subculture-specific gatherings like Labubu-themed spa days play off of Teahee’s shopping center neighbor, Truong An Gifts, the go-to Denver Labubu dealer. Later this month, the shop will host a welcome back party for BTS, giving local ARMY a place to celebrate the K-pop group's return with other fans.

• Vibe: Bright and cheery contemporary decor with a wide open area with tons of seating.

• What’s on the menu: An assortment of fruit teas, tea lattes, milk teas, matcha, and coffee drinks to choose from. Asian-inspired drinks like the salted egg yolk coffee and the pandan coconut cream special will appeal to those who are looking for bold flavors, while a broad selection of black, green, and herbal loose leaf teas cater to those seeking to learn more about the traditional side of the brewed drink.

Expansions and upgrades

8. New concessions at the airport - DIA: Familiar Denver brands are new arrivals

2025 is turning out to be a banner year for the food situation at Denver International Airport. Three Denver-based concepts loved by locals now have side-by-side outposts in Concourse A of the Denver International Airport: Tommy Lee’s ramen joint Uncle, Linda Fox’s New American restaurant The Bindery, and Lorena Cantarovici’s Argentinian empanada shop Maria Empanada.

• Vibe: We’re still at the airport, but if you have to be stuck here, these new stalls are brightly lit and still have that new restaurant sheen to them. There are floor to ceiling windows just past the stalls where customers can watch the planes and the runway.

• What’s on the menu: A selection of airport-friendly versions of favorites off the restaurant menus. With early opening hours (6am for Uncle and Maria Empanada, 7am for The Bindery), this means you can ditch the soggy McMuffins and get noodles, pastry pockets, or some nice baked goods for breakfast instead.

9. Hearth Bakery + Coffee Shop - Highlands Square: Artisan treats hit 32nd Avenue

Matt Quinlisk’s popular pastry and bread shop expanded from its original RiNo location to a second space in Uptown last fall. Now they’ve opened up a third spot on a particularly cute and walkable stretch of 32nd Avenue in the Highland Square neighborhood.

• Vibe: Minimalist urban coffee shop core

• What’s on the menu: Assortment of flakey market fruit and veggie filled pastries, croissants, and their signature scones. You can get a caffeine fix by ordering one of the blends they serve from Denver-based roastery Tablón Coffee. If you take your drink to go, it comes in a Hearth-branded glass jar. Bring it back to any of their shops, and you get $.50 off your next order and the jar gets sanitized and reused.

10. Milk Market revamp - Union Station: Food hall welcomes fresh favorites

Milk Market, the food hall in the heart of downtown Denver, is being revamped. Originally opened in 2018 by chef Frank Bonanno, it’s now operated by Sage Hospitality. As part of the refresh, Sage has brought in established vendors from other parts of the city – including two popular stands from Edgewater Public Market – Konjo Ethiopian Food and Lucky Bird Fried Chicken. Now with a more central location, the concepts will be able to expand their reach from suburbanites to a whole new group of customers: tourists, travelers, and baseball crowds that descend upon the area on game days.

• Vibe: The food hall hasn’t undergone drastic physical changes over the years. Both Konjo and Lucky Bird inherit the original 1950’s soda shop-inspired styling, with black and white houndstooth patterned floors and built-in red vinyl stools lining the counter.

• What’s on the menu: At Konjo Ethiopian Food you can get tasty stewed meats and veggies served alongside springy injera bread or turmeric rice bowls; Lucky Bird offers fried chicken tenders, wraps, and sandwiches; East3 is a new Asian fusion concept where you choose a seafood (or tofu) base and pair it with sauces inspired by Thai, Japanese, and Filipino cuisine. Lon Symensma’s YumCha Noodles & Dumplings will open in the food hall later this summer.

4 links that made me laugh, cry, or say whaaaat?

They’re Gentle. They’re Seasonal. They’re Soft Boy Cooks. NYTimes
I snort-cried so hard after spying this headline for a piece about male chefs who have carved out social media followings for themselves precisely because they don't fit the testosterone raged archetype that’s dominated cooking culture up until recently. And while all press allegedly is good press, I would imagine the interview subjects would have thought twice about being included if they knew they would forever be immortalized in the Paper of Record as a “soft boy.”

Dine and Dash Is Back — But It’s Way Worse Than You Think. Eater
Apparently there is a whole class of people who use stolen credit card numbers to pre-book high-priced dinners, sell them at a discount to somebody else, and walk away with the money. Restaurants are left holding the (empty) bag when the credit cards do a chargeback, with some high end spots suffering over $10,000 in losses per month.

The two new chief restaurant critics for The New York Times did a AMA. Reddit
Tejal Rao and Ligaya Mishan answered select questions from Reddit users. It was buttoned-up, respectful, and overall positive in tone – so there was no spice. The most contentious it got was when someone asked how the star system will hold up now they are planning on national coverage, positing “Like a 2-star in NYC = 2-star in Austin?” The response from Mishan was a diplomatic, “the star system should hold wherever we are.”

‘My grandmother never used yuzu’: global gastronomy is out as Catalan chefs celebrate tradition. The Guardian
The world is still obsessed with Catalan chefs, but these days, some Catalan chefs are not so into the outside world. While legends like Ferran Adrià embraced molecular gastronomy and sourced ingredients globally, today’s chefs are turning to the past – reviving traditional techniques and local ingredients to preserve and evolve Catalonia’s culinary heritage.

One final craving

With inflation squeezing a lot of people’s budgets, pop-up dinners can feel like a tough sell: “come to my pricey set meal where even I’m not sure all the dishes will hit.” But at a recent takeover by Kenny Doan at Sap Sua, I was reminded why they’re still worth showing up for — it’s a chance to catch something in motion: not quite finished, but full of promise. Doan’s turmeric noodle dish with braised pork belly and egg was emblematic of that – visually striking, deeply flavorful, and the kind of thing that feels like the beginning of something bigger. Pop-ups might not always be perfect, but every now and then, you get a glimpse of a chef starting to find their voice – and that’s worth something.

ICYMI: Last month I shared my favorite bites and celebrity sightings at the 2025 James Beard Awards and the surprise giveaway stunt that everyone wished they had thought of themselves.✨ Read it here ✨